I was at Hawley Beach, near Devonport. I woke up one morning and the beach was a seething mess of waves. As a passionate boogie boarder, I paddled out. I caught a really big wave, and as I rode across the face of it the lip of the wave fell over me, so that I was inside the 'tube' or 'barrel'. I didn't make it out, the wave dumped me, but that experience was so peculiar and mesmerising that I have been boogie boarding and surfing ever since.