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22 year old, recently graduated Charles Darwin joined Captain FitzRoy on the HMS beagle as ship's naturalist for a trip around the world. they planed it to be a 2 year voyage but it took nearly 5 years. Most of the 5 years, the Beagle surveyed the coast of south America leaving Darwin free to explore the continent and islands, including the Galapagos. Darwin filled many note books with careful observations about animals, plants and geology, collecting 1000s of specimens.
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Darwin embarks on the HMS Beagle voyage as the ship captain's assistant. 'the misery I endured from seasickness is far beyond what I ever guessed at.'
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Darwin is exhilarated by his first observations. 'It then dawned on me that I might perhaps write a book on the geology for the various countries visited, and this made me thrill with delight.'
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'We have crossed the Equator, and I have undergone the disagreeable operation of being shaved... the constable blindfolded me and thus lead along, buckets of water were thunder all around; I was then placed on a plank, which could be easily tilted up into a large bath of water... The whole ship was a shower bath.'
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Darwin explores Brazilian rain-forests for the first time. 'Here I first saw a tropical forest in all its sublime grandeur... I never experienced such intense delight.'
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Darwin is intrigued by the giant fossils he sees. 'I have been wonderfully lucky with fossil bones. Some of the animals must have been of great dimensions! I am almost sure that many of them are quite new.'
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Captain Robert FitzRoy repatriates three native people he had brought to England on a previous voyage. FitzRoy attempts to start a Christian mission, which fails disastrously.
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Darwin finds the barren, windswept Falkland Island 'desolate and wretched.'desolate and wretched.' But he perks up when he cracks open some 'primitive looking rocks' and finds fossils. The Falklands were full of brachiopods - two- shelled animals once among the most abundant organisms on Earth
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Darwin explores the fertile lowland areas, known as Pampas, with the local people or 'gauchos'. 'There is high enjoyment in the independence of the gaucho life - to be able at any moment to pull up [your] horse'
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Darwin sees Mount Osorno erupt while on the island of Chiloe and experiences the earthquake in the woods near Valdivia. Seeing the aftermath of the earthquake affected him tremendously. 'I believe this earthquake has done more in degrading or lessening the size of the island, than 100 years of ordinary wear and tear.'
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Darwin finds many species of plants, birds and tortoises unique to the Galapagos Islands, but they seem mysteriously related to mainland species.
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'I took a quiet walk along the sea coast to the north of the town; the plain is there quite uncultivated, consisting of a field of black lava smoothed over with coarse grass and bushes, the greater part of which are mimosas,' observes Darwin
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On arrival in Sydney Cove, Darwin's first feeling was 'to congratulate myself that I was born an Englishman... it is a fine town.'
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Darwin studies coral reefs growing around islands to test his theory of atoll formation. 'I am glad we have visited these islands; such formations surely rank high amongst the wonderful objects of this world.'
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In the jungles of South America, Darwin discovers many incredible creatures. However, both homesick and seasick, he is dismayed when the Beagle makes an unscheduled detour to make additional longitude measurements. 'This zig-zag manner of proceeding is very grievous... I loathe, I abhor the sea, and all ships which sail on it.'
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'I reached home late last night. my head is quite confused with so much delight.' The Beagle ship was only 27m (90 feet) long and carried 74 people, and 22 clocks, in very close quarters
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'The first object in Cape Town which strikes the eye of a stranger, is the number of bullock wagons... I have as yet not mentioned the well known Table Mountain; this great mass of horizontally stratified sandstone rises quite close behind the town to a height of 3,500 feet.'