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The Gothic era
What had started in the 1850's was known as the Gothic era. The Gothic era arrived on the scene and the fashion lines wilted into dropping ringlets and dragging skirts. The sleeves that then had fullness became fitted, and shoulders were extended below their natural line and the skirts were hemmed lower towards the floor. Normally necklines were worn higher up during the day and wide during the evening. The skirts had become very domed in silhouette , which required much more material. -
Expanded skirts
Once the 1860's rolled along, the cage crinoline or hoop had swayed onto the scene and the skirts had expanded to their maximum size. Women were delighted to wear the cage as it provided relief from the weight of numerous petticoats and the plethora of undergarments that needed to be washed. The hoop was worn almost universally and could be seen on ladies, maids, the middle class, and shop girls. Women working hard in fields and those scrubbing floors. -
The skirt era
So then began the era of the skirt, and it was to be 30 years before skirts were worn unhindered by the support structures. The round hoop of 1860 evolved into an oval hoop close to the 1870's. As the skirt was developed, the back emphasis saw the creation of the first bustle, which had appeared by 1870. The big, soft, high and very draped bustle skirt had enjoyed its popularity for about 8 years. -
The bodice had appeared
Close to the 1880's, the shoulders were then allowed to return to the position in which nature had intended, and the long line cuirass bodice appeared, which had reached to the hips. The day bodices had high necklines and fitted sleeves with pleated or ruffed cuffs at the wrists. The new look that was intended for the evenings included a three-quarter length sleeves with a square neckline. -
The bustle came back
The popular demand had brought back the bustle near the end of the 1880's, but consisted with some changes. It was then worn at a lower placement with a more narrow width. Dresses that were worn over this new frame were sturdier, being constructed in heavier fabrics such as velvet, satin, and wool. Colours were darker with bottle green, deep wine, navy blue, and black coming to the fore. Mercifully cotton and linen were used for summer.
